Classic Ice Climbs – NH – VT
Each ice climbing season is full of of twists, turns, and changes. Ice conditions in the northeast vary wildly from November to March. My guests and partners come and go due to the variables in everyday life. The mental focus, fitness and psych I need to ascend routes also is changeable each season. This 2017 ice season is a fantastic season to remember. The overall ice conditions have been fantastic. My guests, friends and I all rallied together to ascend many of the Classic Ice Climbs – NH – VT !!!
Repentance is one of Cathedral Ledges finest ice climbs. This ice route is a narrow vein of ice 300 ft in length. This is a classic hard line with steep and sustained difficulties. Today it is common to find a line at the base area. First ascended in 1973 by John Bragg and Rick Wilcox.
The beautiful Mindbender, a steep and unrelenting flow at Lake Willoughby. Normally climbed as a two pitch route with the first pitch being quite sustained and the second pitch turning on the difficulties in a variety of steep corners and grooves. First ascended in 1977 by Clint Cummins and John Imbrie.
Fafnir the sister flow of the Black Dike. The last pitch pictured on the right is in excellent condition. Find the line of least resistance and take it to the top. First ascended in 1975 by John Bouchard, Steve Zajchowski and Roger Martin.
The Mt Willard test piece. Steep and technical climbing, this one turns on the pump. First ascended in 1982 by Jim Dunn and Dale Wilson.
On the Drool of the Beast a dramatic ice choked chimney on the east side of Mt Osceola. This is a spectacular one pitch ice climb. Thin ice, a narrow chimney, and multiple steep curtains entertain one on this fine route. First ascended in 1982 by Kurt Winkler and George Hurley.
The Black Dike, one of the most popular ice routes in the area. The length, the moderate difficulties, the tremendous alpine atmosphere make this one fantastic climb. First ascended in 1971 by John Bouchard.
The Way in the Wilderness is one of the most beautiful ice climbs in the White Mountains. This route is south facing and needs optimum conditions to form up and is alway suspect from falling ice. First ascended in 1978 by Jim Dunn, Michael Hartrich, and Peter Cole.
The Beast at Kinsman Notch formally known as Luck of the Irish. First ascended by Bob Pike and Ron Reynolds.
Fangmanship a rare former at Rumney Rocks NH!!! Get on this one, its an excellent route. First ascended in 1978 by Chris Hassig and Bob Pike.
The Geographic Factor is the most spectacular ice climb at Rumney Rocks. a steep corner leads to an overhanging section at mid height. A sustained and pumpy route. First ascended in 1978 by Brian Brodeur and Tim Gotwols.
It truly amazes me that all of these difficult test piece ice routes were ascended at a very early time. Climbed with straight shaft tools, protected with snargs and old Chouinard screws, and even strap on crampons. Hats of to all the first ascensionists for seeing the vision – nice work you all.
As they say if there is will there is a way!!!