Moby Grape has been on Han Chen’s to climb list for some time. Han has trained up for this route on long routes in the Red Rock and a few other Cannon climbs. Yesterday we had the green light so we met at 5:30 to assure a prime spot (first) on the route. We arrived in the parking lot by 6am and were a bit surprised to find two other parties getting ready for the day, it was the 4th of July!!! No worries as they had other plans, the big wall section and Lakeview. Han and I packed the gear and started our approach.
Reppy’s is the first pitch of Moby Grape. The original start fell of a few years ago. Yes the main part actually broke of the cliff, ending up in the talus below. Now all parties start up the Reppy’s to begin Moby Grape. This long crack puts the hurt on the feet and hands
The morning light show was quite nice. Here the sun pops out over the Lafayette Ridge.
Moby Grape takes a line up the buttress in center, then wanders back and forth on the upper wall. Over 1000ft of good solid cracks take one to the top of the wall.
Han tapes up for the Reppy’s crack. Sinker hand jams are a must to climb this pitch. Taped gloves protect the skin from abrasion and give the extra stick when hand jamming up the wall.
Han enjoying the splitter cracks on the triangle roof pitch. Moby Grape has such a wide variety of climbing, all techniques are used to climb. Slabs, cracks, chimneys, and overhang cruxes keep coming at you right to the top.
Han and I made the summit in excellent time. On the top with coiled up ropes at 11:30 . It was a 4th of July glory day on Moby Grape, Cannon Cliff, NH.
Moby Grape is certainly one of my favorites and a climb I truly enjoy giving the tour. Thank you Han for this climb!!!
Art Mooney – IFMGA Mountain Guide