The Medium of Granite!!!

New Hampshire, nicknamed the granite state due to the states extensive granite formations and quarries. The Medium of Granite is quite variable from one formation to another. For instance much of Cathedral and Whitehorse is fine grained and very smooth with slick polished climbs. The granite of Cannon Cliff is quite fractured with a more textured and grippy surface. From one area to another the rock climbing experience can differ dramatically.

The Flatiron Franconia Notch NH

Jerry and I climbed at two different backcountry crags this weekend. On Saturday we climbed at Mt Oscar which has many fine cracks and faces. The rock is quite sharp and very coarsely grained. On Sunday we visited The Flatiron (pictured above). The Flatiron is located in a true alpine setting an exposed area with textured and grippy stone. The routes are primarily face climbs requiring delicate movements on crimps, tiny cracks, and in cut flakes. This weekend reminded us how important it is to be a well versed climber.

Medium of Granite

Jerry took charge at Mt Oscar. Four challenging on sight leads kept his attention throughout the day. It was wonderful to belay him on these fine routes. We were both excited and charged up as we moved from one climb to another ticking of the recommended three star routes.

Oscar the Grouch - Mt Oscar

Oscar the Grouch – a varied climb starting with a lie back crack, moving right onto a face, then into the beautiful steep hand crack.  A surprise comes as you near the top. You must leave the crack for moves on a face/slab linking to the arete and then the bolted anchor. A fantastic lead – well done Jerry!!!

Medium of Granite

Jerry into the goods – solid hands and excellent gear.

Medium of Granite

Our day ended with a nice easy ride back to the trailhead.

Medium of Granite

On Sunday it was a party of three. Terry joined us for our mountain day in Franconia Notch. It was a perfect end of summer outing, the warm weather had arrived in NH.

Medium of Granite

Terry enjoying Franconia Notches best 5.8 face climb – Salt Pack.

Medium of Granite

Jerry on the arete climb called Little Porky.

Medium of GraniteWe climbed the three routes on the Flatiron, above Terry is completing the testy climb called Puckered Pork.

The state of NH is loaded with stone to climb. The Medium of Granite varies widely which is fantastic for us climbers. As we ventured from one area to another the climbing experience changes which puts our skills to the test.

What an amazing weekend!!! So much thanks to Jerry and Terry for joining me to climb on the spectacular faces around NH the granite state.

Art Mooney

Join up with Art  –  http://www.mooneymountainguides.com

This entry was posted in Art Mooney, Mammut, NH Rock Climbs and tagged , , . Bookmark the permalink.

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