The Red Rock

The Red Rock is a favorite climbing venue that I frequently visit during the spring and fall climbing seasons. My guide training work with the AMGA has drawn me to this place year after year. Occasionally a guest from the east joins up with me for the classic long rock routes in the Red Rock conservation area.

Rocktober is here, the prime climbing season all across the country. Climbers and guides have trained up all summer for this season. It’s the time to send projects, onsight new routes, test the skills on harder lines.

Han Chen arrived this weekend for a three day blitz in the Red Rock. A nonstop flight on the way out and a red eye for the return. This guy is motivated to rock climb. Han and I joined up right away and we got down to the business of multi pitch climbing in the Red Rock canyons.

Han and I decide upon the Ginger Buttress as a good first venue. Ginger Cracks is a seven pitch climb with cracks of all sizes and sections of technical face climbing linking together a fine line for over 600 feet.

Quickly we found ourselves up high on Ginger Cracks with two easy pitches to the top, it was 11:30am. Both Han and I had talked about a new line up and right called the Blade Runner. We were psyched, had the time, and our energy levels were strong.

The Blade Runner is an arete climb –  like a knife edge in the sky.  Climbing higher we entered a zone with exhilarating exposure.  We danced back and forth up the arete with  delicate movements, a truly amazing experience for each of us. We topped out by 2pm and made our descent back to the base. The Ginger Crack – Blade Runner link up is locked down in our memories as a high point of our season together.

The Rose Tower is pictured in this photo with the classic Red Rock climb called Olive Oil taking a line up the left side of the formation. Today was much cooler with high winds so a sunny route with sheltered corners was a perfect choice for us.

Han has spent many weekends prepping for this trip. It paid off, Han is climbing very well, enjoying the long moderate crack pitches on this route. We made short work and topped out just after the noon hour.

Han on lead at the top of Olive Oil climb.

Han and I on top of the Rose Tower.

Han and I have climbed together for many seasons on the rock and ice. I certainly look  forward to many more adventures to come our way.

Thank you Han it was an awesome weekend with you in the Red Rock.

Art Mooney

This entry was posted in Art Mooney, Mammut, Red Rocks Guided Climbs and tagged , . Bookmark the permalink.

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