The Sebbatical

Over the years I have learned that mid week climbing partners are far and few. This past summer and now winter my good friend Todd has be coming up on Thursdays.  Todd is on a sabbatical from his work at Milton academy. I must say all of the climbs and the past two days on the ice were awesome. Thanks to Todd for all of his mid week journeys up to NH!!!

IMG_8915Yesterday was an action packed for us with ascents of the steep ice climbs at Rumney Rocks. Rumney can be a sunny warm location and that’s what gave us extra comfort and a needed edge to push it on a variety of routes.

Today Todd and I kept the ball rolling and approached into the Drool of the Beast. The Drool is a remote ice runnel/vein that trickles down a gash in the south face of East Oseola. NEICE had one photo from an ascent a few days ago and that sparked my interest.

IMG_8925The Drool of the Beast starts off with a steep ice section a few inches thick. The protection is sparse and the climbing movements are very engaging.

IMG_3298Its time to climb!!! I am armed with Nomics, Darts, stubby screws and small rack of cams.

IMG_3300Todd got this photo of me stuffed into a little crevasse as I wind in two ice screws behind the curtain of ice. This climb is very confined and its hard to move around. I would compare it to a chimney type rock climb.

IMG_8935Todd topping out.

IMG_8943Thanks to Todd for all these great days together.

IMG_8922Drool of the Beast a classic NH ice climb.

Art Mooney

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